Tuesday 12th June. 2018

Had the best sleep.  I had woken up during the night to rain and had to close my window.  It was still raining when I went for my shower.  I decided to start my journey and stop somewhere for breakfast.  However on the way to get back on the M1, I saw a sign for Historic bridges and decided to check it out.  Well first I took a wrong turning and arrived at the very neat railway station.  I thought it worth a photo.

Returning the way I came, I could see where the bridge was, but had missed it as it was fenced off with signs not to enter.  I went down and there was a placard with Information about this bridge.  I wrote down the information but can’t find the scrap of paper.  This is from memory.  People came to Gundagai around 1840/50’s and settled on the flood plains.   One year there were floods but no-one died.  The next year there was a bigger flood and 78 people lost their lives.   This remained the highest loss of live in our Nation’s history until the fires of Black Saturday in Victoria in 2009 with a loss of 81 lives.

It was decided to build a bridge which would span the flood plains, a considerable distance.  In 1867 the Prince Albert bridge was opened.  Named after Queen Victoria’s son, Albert, it was the first iron truss bridge built in NSW.  It was 313.9meters long.

I’m sorry they are a bit dark but it was an early dull morning after rain during the night.

In 1977 the Shearman bridge replaced the Prince Albert which was only then used by locals.   It then it became too dangerous even for pedestrians and so you can now only view it through the fence wire.  In 2010 the Shearman bridge was duplicated so now the dual Highway 1 operates on the outskirts of the town.

I had not had breakfast so decided on a whim of nostalgia to have it at the famous “Dog sits  on the tucker box, nine miles from Gundagai”.   I had often been here, but it is quite different now.  First there  is a huge petrol station owned by Coles who have a 24 hr. Supermarket there – you also have to walk into the Supermarket to pay.

I asked where the statue of the dog was and was told to continue along the Service road.  There was a huge cafe there so stopped to have my breakfast.  Oliver’s chain of cafes offer fresh healthy food and are everywhere in NSW.  This was my first time in one.  A bit pricey I thought for $2.95 for one piece of toast.  They serve only skinny milk here – you pay extra for full cream, soy etc.  The girl who brought me my muffin and cup of tea, was friendly and efficient, but I’m in no hurry to go back.

I continued on the service road which was looking a bit neglected and found my statue.

The building on the left was where we always stopped – as did most people for the statue was famous having been immortalised in the song “The Dog sits on the Tucker Box, “    We all sang it as children.   Now the cafe,  Information  Centre, and gift shop was closed.  However it was early so I’m hopeful it may still be operating.   It always seems sad to me when the smaller stores die after the big conglomerates come into their area.

I was heading now to Goldburn where I hoped to get my mobile phone operating again.  It was completely dead after I drowned it.  Karen had bought me an old one of hers down but we couldn’t get my SIM card to fit in it.   Found an Optus store who fitted a new SIM  and in  but phone was Telstra and it was locked.  Over to Telstra.  It took over 1 1/2 hours but finally, back with Optus who rang Telstra, it would take 9/10 days to unlock it!!!!!!   So much for having the safety of my phone while travelling.

I  by-passed Sydney and marvelled once again as I neared Newcastle, at the incredible feats of the engineers who design and build these roads.   Here they have sliced through solid rock big tall hills, for us to drive through.  Simply amazing.  Wish I could have stopped to take a photo, but definitely not safe to do so.

I kept going, eventually stopping at Taree in a caravan park as it was on dusk.   I was tired so quick tea and into bed – with my hot water bottle of course.

Wednesday 13th June

Up early again, showered and on the road.   Now I was hoping to get to Karen’s south of Brisbane that night.

Not far out of Tarree I came to two bridge over passes.    They went up very steeply, levelled out, the  steeply down the other  side.   Being so close it was like a roller coaster ride,  up, up up, then down, down down, and then almost immediately repeated.  I had a grin on my face as I drove.  At the top of both those bridges I was over-awed at the Great Dividing Range spread out a way off, going from south to north looking so majestic, rugged and blue.  They literally seemed all around me and I thought of those history lessons in school of the men who tried so hard to find a way over them.

The M1 is pretty good,  but eventually I struck major road works from Woolgoolga to Balina.   This freeway when it is finished will be incredible and take off lots of time by by-passing all these lovely little towns.  Today having to stop and start at road works traffic lights, then 50 mph through the little towns, I could have well done without it.

For some time I had been following the Richmond River, wide and beautiful.  I stopped at one of those small towns to have some lunch which I had with me and took these two photos looking up and down stream.

I made it to Karen’s but was very tired.   My neck was playing up and I had trouble turning it without pain.  She was home shortly after I arrived and made tea – something I always do for her when  i’m down and it was early to bed.

Thursday 14th June,

Karen left early for work and I just lay in for awhile  then up and showered, I walked around her garden which had grown enormously while i’ve been away, then headed over to Le and Alex on the other side of town.  They had just returned from Alex’s swimming lesson.  Big hugs from both and then in to have a cuppa.  We took a walk to the park and Alex was excited at seeing two tortoises, numerous water hens and ducks and a goanna, as well as having a swing.

Trang returned from school – more hugs and I gave them both some China eggcups- one a kangaroo and one a koala.    Very exciting as they had boiled eggs with me last time I minded them and now they each have their own cup.

Mike arrived home and I was able to give him his birthday present – a framed picture of the tall manna gums from Narby area.   I’d been a bit apprehensive but he loved it and hung it up straight away.

Friday 15th June.

Up early to say goodbye to Mike and Trang.   Alex wandered out later and asked if she could get dressed, so off she went.   Came back very proud of herself – in soccer clothes and jumper and hood.   We went outside to see the new garden Mike had made and I took a photo of her.

I knew Le would change her for Playgroup, but she thought she was just beautiful.  In the garden boxes, Le had added a touch of colour, which just brightened it all up.

Again hugs all around as I left heading for home.  I was ready to come home   I’ve been away 2 1/2 months, visited so many people and had a wonderful time.  My brother and my friend Norma had died during my travels and I will miss them both, especially Ray, for we have shared memories since we were children together.  However I would not wish either back.  They are in a far better place and both fit and well again – well that is my belief.

It was wonderful to drive up my driveway and enter my house.  Both it and my garden have been lovingly tended by my friends and rellies who stayed.  Hugs from my neighbours and all is well in my world.

 

 

 

Sunday/Monday 10/11th June 2018

Yesterday was a family Gathering to honour my brother Ray who died three weeks ago.

Before we left I got a couple of photos of Mike and Karen and Jim and Sally, then Sal took one with me in it.

It would take us two hours to drive to Lissie’s where it was being held but as we were to meet Christine and Al plus my Steve and Mel, for lunch at noon, we left around 10am.   The traffic was pretty good so we arrived in plenty of time.

We were meeting at the local nursery which has a cafe attached, so till the others arrived we wandered looking at the beautiful but very expensive plants.

As I had booked some days prior, we had a big wooden table which seated the nine of us.   Most hadn’t seen Steve and Mel for sometime as they live in Tasmania, so the noise level was quite high and people moved seats often so to speak to everyone and catch up.

After a delicious lunch, it was decided we would go for a walk down the beach which we did.  A very nice man took a photo of us all.  I was the elder, everyone else were cousins or partners.At Lissie’s, Jacki had made up a slide presentation, played through the TV, of Ray’s life.   It was just beautiful.   Jon had found Ray’s record of the mini- golf day held every year for about 20 years and those that had played in it – the cousins and myself – were reminiscing over it and as Ray had put notes at the bottom of the page of who had won, or got a hole on one, etc.  comments were flying around.  Ray was meticulous and so everything was there. Much laughter especially at my large scores!  Obviously mini-golf was not my thing!

Later Jacki told us all about Ray and I gave a few snippets of our life growing up together, but his five grandchildren stole the show with the reading of a poem they had made up about Ray just a few hours before.  Each read a line and did so twice and it was fantastic.  They range in age from 18 to 10 years.

Steve and Mel headed off to the train as they were down for another day and Jimmy drove us five to the airport so Karen and Mike could return to Brisbane.   It was a lovely day, but by now it was cold again and for my last night I slept inside the house.

Monday 11th June

This morning Jim bought me a cup of tea in bed, but I was asleep.  I had not slept well as had a bad back with the pain running down my left leg.  It was hard to get comfortable, but obviously at sometime I had fallen asleep.

When I did wake up, it was to a thick fog.  After a shower and breakfast, Sally cut my hair,  bless her, as it sure needed it.   I checked the oil in the van – it was fine, – then repacked everything before saying farewell to Jim and Sally.   I always love being with them and staying at Narby, which originally belonged to my eldest brother Jim.  Somehow we all felt that “Narby” was a family place and we all love it.

I filled up with fuel then headed out of my way over to Marysville to buy Mike a framed photo I had seen there when over with Jim.  I hadn’t brought him a present for his birthday and the one I wanted was of the tall manna gums that are everywhere at Narby.  It was a bit pricey, but I bought it and then wondered how I could transport it back.  It sits on top of the table and chair on my bed and is held tight by a jockey strap.

I took the road to Buxton and back on the Maroondah Highway.   It is the last day of the Queens Birthday weekend and everyone was returning home so the traffic heading to Melbourne was bumper to bumper, whereas I was mostly the only car going my way.

It was beautiful driving through these areas I knew so well when we lived in the area, Taggerty, Acheron, Alexander etc.   The fog was often heavy in patches on the road, but it had lifted in most places.   However the Mountains were sompletely hidden and when I passed the sign to The Cathedral Mts, I had to laugh as they just weren’t there.  Nothing to see but fog.   When I came to the lookout where you can look down on the town of Alexander, it too was not to be seen at all.

I crossed over the Eildon Dam at the Bonnie Doone end and although there was water in it, it was still quite low.  I turned off to Benalla and stopped to eat the lunch Sally had made for me at Lake  Nillacoota.   Hope I’ve spelt that right. You can see in these photos how low the water is, but in one photo two intrepid fishermen were still hoping.

Onto the M1, the Hume Highway.  Now this Highway goes all the way to Sydney as a dual Highway, bypassing all the little towns and with a speed set at 110 klms.   I was staggered to discover that both Wodonga and Albury you have to turn off to, otherwise you go around them.

Now I am in The River Caravan Park for the night, at Gundagai.  No camp kitchen , but there is a jug you can heat, so I already have my hot water bottle here with me.

Hopefully on the Pacific Highway going north tomorrow somewhere when I stop.

Wednesday/Saturday 6/9th June 2018

Couldn’t believe it, it was -4 degrees when I woke .   A frost covered the ground and crackled under my feet as I headed inside the house.

It turned out to be a beautiful day, so Jim and I drove over the hills into Marysville.  Jim needed to send some mail and I wanted to check out the Op Shop, as I needed to get some warmer clothes to wear to the Gathering for my brother on Sunday.   It was a good Op Shop with a lovely gentleman in charge.  The locals take a turn a month to run the shop.   I got a warm skivvy, a white jumper and a large warm jumper that I can put on over other layers.

That afternoon, Jim and I drove over the creek, up the road and into his property on the other side of the creek.  This whole block is bush, unlike the open garden on the other side where the house is.   Jim has put a track through, wide enough to drive the car.  We were there to get some wood for the fire.   Jim cut the timber into logs with the chainsaw and I stacked it into his ute.

Jim cooked us a beautiful meal and then hugging my hot water bottle I went out to my van.   Fortunately I am very snug and warm in my van.

Thursday 7th June 

Today Sally would be arriving home from some weeks in Queensland and Jim would go and pick her up.   It was a very quiet day as I stayed here while Jim went to pick Sally up.   He hadn’t told Sally I would be there, so it was lovely to see her face light up when she saw me.

After unpacking the food they had bought back with them, Sally and I sat down with a cuppa and caught up.   I cooked us tea and was in bed quite early.

Friday 8th June

It rained all night  so on with the raincoat to get into the house, but Sally and I had the best day as we got the combustion stove working.   My Mum had a slow combustion stove and so did I when I lived in the Wimmera, but Sally never had.  We got it going and then spent the day cooking.  Sally made cakes and I made a loaf of bread and then we cooked tea in and on it.   Sally loved it and the house became quite warm with both the combustion stove and fire going.

Saturday 10th June.

Today Mike and Karen would be flying in for Ray’s Gathering tomorrow.   Sally and I drove into Tullamarine to pick them up.  The Flight was on time and then there they were – hugs all round.   Over two months since I’ve seen my children.   In that time Karen has been travelling in Italy for a month.

Back at Narby, Jim had both the fire and the stove going so the house was lovely and warm.  The house was filled with chatter and laughter as we all caught up.   Mike has not been here for some years, so now he could see the house finished and the garden  looking so good.   Other than the blackened trunks of the gums, you would never know that this whole area was once burnt to the ground after the Black Saturday fires.

Mike wanted to walk around and see the whole area and Karen to see all that had been done since her last visit two years ago.   We walked all over the property.  The creek had risen since yesterday’s rain.   In the first photo Jum is showing us the European wasp nest he had torched.

Later we sat down to roast lamb and vegies, followed by apple strudel all cooked in the combustion stove.  I think that stove will be used every day till summer arrives.

Now the boys are watching rugby and the girls have retired for the night.

 

 

Monday/Tuesday 4/5th June, 2018

Wow, it was a cold morning I woke to,  – 0 degrees I found out later,and as for the view?   Well I’ll put up the view when I arrived and then in the morning.

The car hasn’t moved but the mountain range has disappeared in the fog.  It was mid morning before it was completely clear and was a beautiful day.

Nella and Mark had been away the day before for Mark to go racing his motorbike.   He is a very good rider and even though he has an older style bike and is much older than most riders, he still came second.   He would have won but he lost points due to starting off too early in the last race.

Mark spent the morning cleaning his bike and trailer, plus the special gear he wears, and Nella and I took a walk around the property then lit a fire in a drum and sat and chatted.   It was a lovely lazy day.   Nella doesn’t work Mondays so how good was that!Next morning Nella had to be at work by 7.45am, so I made sure I was over at the house to say goodbye.   A big hug and she was gone.   Mark came back inside after seeing Nella off and we sat and chatted whilst I had some breakfast.

Then it was time to pack up the van and head off.   A friend to visit and then I drove over The Black Spur to Narbethong where my nephew lives.  This particular drive through part of The Great Divide is spectacular to say the least.  I was able to get a photo.  This entire drive is through these magnificent gums and tree ferns.   In 1939, this area was completely destroyed by bushfire, called Black Fiday.  It was depression times and so men were employed to replant the gums that had been destroyed.  My Dad used to tell me this story as a little girl each time we drove through and if you looked down into the gums from the road, you could actually see that they were planted in rows.

Once on the other side of The Divide it was just a short drive to Narby.  I had been here earlier on my trip, but now was returning to stay till time to go for my late brother’s family gathering.

Only Jimmy was home and his wife Sally would be returning on Thursday.   Jim was down at the creek, building a new bridge across the creek.  This whole property was burnt – nothing left – in the Black Saturday fires that devastated Marysville when it swept over the hills into the town, having first destroyed Narbethong.  The new bridge is made of steel so should another fire go through it will not burn as the previous wooden one did.

Welded in position, next he will put up a rail each side with a bracing from rail to cross piece to give extra strength.   He has also made a steel fence and gates from steel painted green in case of another fire at some stage.  He and a friend have decided that the next one will be in 70 years on a Sunday – seeing as 70 years passed since the 1939 fires on Black Friday, to the the Black Saturday fires!!!!   How some minds work, even in jest!

Whilst he was working a motorised hang glider went over the top of us.  They, there were two of them – were taking off from the property opposite.

I made a lovely chicken and vegetable soup, followed by steak and vegies.  We then watched a show on telly about trucks with three trailers in the outback under atrocious conditions.  It was quite interesting as I knew a lot of the places they were going to.

Out then into the cold to my van, cuddling my hot water bottle.

Sunday 3rd June 2018

Woke to another cold morning.  Tina was being picked up by her son and his family, so I packed the van.  The window was fogged up and when I put the wipers on, the ice moved to the side of the window.  It was cold!  

I waved goodbye to Tina and her family and set out for Euroa where Bruce’s brother and sister lived.  It was a pretty drive through the countryside, to Shepparton and then towards Euroa.   I had travelled this way many times before so knew my way.

Euroa like many of the towns I have visited had some beautiful old buildings.  I stopped to get the paper and was pleased to see that many of the shops looked like they had had a facelift.   There was also a new Memorial with all the names of those who have earned VC’s in the various wars Australia has participated in.

Don was not answering his phone – what is new? – but Dorothy answered hers.  She immediately came home.  It is some time I have seen them because they have not been home when I have called in.

We had a lovely time together before Don arrived home, then later Dorothy’s son Adam and his partner Cindy, who lived next door came in.  I recognised Adam, but it is years since I have seen him.   Cindy is Vietnamese and comes from Saigon, so she was interested to hear of our Le.

Next morning I took a photo before I left.  It was a lovely visit.

Adam thought I needed more air in my tyres, so called into a Service Station to pump them up.   Well, not like I was used to and had no idea what I was doing.  A fellow pulled up so I asked him to help.  The type I had been “playing” with had 50 in it – should be 30, so, bless him, he did the rest for me.   People are so nice.

This is a photo of the park in Euroa where people swim in the summer.  A very pretty spot.The road I took went past the Strathbogie Mts.  These are rugged mountains with boulders in amongst the vegetation.   The country has mainly sheep on it and is quite hilly, which meant the road wound around and up.  The second part of the road had newly been sealed and widened, so was an easier drive.

Many years ago there was a bushfire on this road and Bruce and I drove through blackened devastation.  A few months later, we drove back through the same area and those blackened trees had new green shoots on all the tree trunks.   Nature is truly resilient and amazing.

As I would be going to stay with Mark and Nella again I headed through to Yea.  Along the way I was fascinated to see low cloud in the valley,  was almost blocking out the Great Dividing Range.  I stopped to take a photo.This low cloud filled every valley along this road.

Eventually I arrived at Mark and Nella’s.   I knew nobody was home as I had rung and had to leave a message.  I set up my van on my favourite spot.  It was here overlooking this amazing view that we held Bruce’s Memorial Service,  14 years ago.   These mountains form part of The Great Dividing range that begin in Queensland, going through New South Wales and end in Victoria.

I decided to get a fire going outside where we always sit and have billy tea chatting and enjoying the view of the same mountain range but from a different viewpoint. As always Mark had left the fire set up so I lit it and then began scrounging around for extra wood.   I had decided I would cook up a stew for tea, using up all the vegies from my fridge.

When the stew was cooked in the camp oven, I put it on the plate over the fire to keep warm as it was getting dark.  Every vehicle I heard I checked out but it wasn’t them.  Finally I retreated to my van where it was warmer.  At one stage I checked my phone  and a message from Nella said they’d be home at 6pm.   It was almost that so went and checked.  They were home – had even called out to me but presumed I was asleep.   Had they had tea?  No, so I was the best guest.

Always lovely to be with these two,  Bruce’s and my dearest friends.  I went happily out to my van to bed, with a hot water bottle, after our meal and a cuppa.

 

 

 

 

Monday/Tuesday 28/29th May 2018

Woke to a lovely day.   Was parked up against a River gum which had fallen and so had to reverse out and turn around.   This necessitated having to drive on the sand which was very soft, so into 4WD and out immediately.  So grateful I had 4WD.

Back on the road I headed for Hattah National Park.  Passed lots of grapevines and so colourful with red and yellow for as far as you could see.  I think the red ones are the  eating red grapes we buy.  I thought I had taken a photo but no.

At one stage the land was SO red and such a contrast to the greyish brown beside me.  Then the rain could be seen falling on somewhere else and so I got this lovely photo.

Hope you think it is lovely too!

Finally at Hattah National Park.  It must be 30 years since Bruce and I and our children were here.  A nice new Building to go in and pay, but no you have to do it on line or ring.   I was not impressed and the Ranger I saw told me they weren’t either.  Seems Park Ranger’s don’t like the system, the Information people don’t like the system, old foggies like me don’t like it, yet the Depts, obviously do.  Why do they not listen to the people!  The price for me to stay – paid only by card – was $26.00 .   I thought this a bit much and said so.  Discovered this is for a family – so I paid that for just me?  Not happy Jane.  Seems that since this price has happened, the numbers to the Park have dropped dramatically so now the Big Wigs are looking at increasing the fees at popular spots like Wilson’s Prom and dropping them here!!  Also the Rangers have to move out of their houses here and go live in Mildura as costs Dept too much.  Will anyone be here at night when this happens?

Found a spot and set up.  Got out solar panels, table, stove etc and then felt a few drops of rain.  Packed everything back in van and retreated inside too.  Got this beautiful shot of two rainbows when sky cleared.

My camping spot and double rainbow.  Two other campers were nearby but it was early to bed as the rain kept stopping and starting.  Sometime in the night, the lightening and thunder began and a decent drop came down.  I was snug in my bed.

This morning, up and on my way again.  Did a 6 klm drive around the area which was lovely.  Saw kangaroos, emus and some Eastern Rosellas.   I had not been able to find anything similar to when I was here all those years ago,  but think it is because all around the edge of the lakes – which fill when the Murray floods – now have stands of young river red gums growing, none of which were there in my time and they completely alter the landscape.

Decided to drive 9 klms to the other campsite just to go see, and when got there, met again a couple I had chatted with the day before – he lived as a boy in Horsham.  They had a flat battery this morning and had to ring the ranger as they were the only people in that camping area.  She had rung many numbers until finally someone in Mildura contacted one of the Rangers here to help them out.  Glad it was not a real emergency.  I had a cuppa with them which was lovely.

Having said all the negatives, I must say the sites are well organised, the toilets are clean and in each camping area, and it really is beautiful.

I decided to head towards Swan Hill, but turned off to check out Robinvale and am glad I did.  The Information Centre is small but boy is it stocked with everything available and sourced within 30 klms of there.  This is a huge almond growing area, so all sorts of things added to almonds, dried fruits, oils, jams etc etc.  This lady is proud of her town and area and doing her bit to showcase it.  Of course I helped out and came out with quite a number of items.

Back on track to Swan Hill, I came to  Boundary Bend and made the decision to stop here.  I could do my washing – and got it dry on the line – empty my porta-loo – definitely needed doing, – and shortly will be off for a shower.   The Murray river does a sweeping bend here but try as I might it is extremely hard to show the bend properly.

The first is the bend, the second one is looking further upstream from the bend.

Now time for a shower, then bed.  Tomorrow Swan Hill.

 

 

Friday/Sunday 25/27 May 2018

Friday, 25 May,  Mungo N.Pk

 

My last night on the Murray river – note the reeds on right photo.  This is my campsite and sunset a bit later.    Quite sad to leave my possie by the Murray, but looking forward to going to Mungo.  Had a lucky escape before leaving my campsite.  Found spot I thought I could get some water from to do the dishes and save my own water.  A bit of a slope but nothing I couldn’t handle – ha!  I slipped almost at edge and could see myself falling in – my thought was “how do I dry my clothes?”.  Fortunately my left hand grabbed at some reeds and they held – what a relief – and using the reeds, managed to scramble up to the top of the bank.

I called into the Information Centre again as wanted to find out the condition of the gravel roads into Mungo N.Pk.   One of the people on the Paddle steamer told me how horrendous the road out from Mildura was and a friend who rang in agreed and suggested I go via Balranald.   An extremely helpful young lady, suggested I go out on the Pooncarrie road then only 68 klms of gravel which she said was in good condition.  She also suggested I do the “Walls of China” tour as you get to actually walk on that site.

Along the way I passed several salt lakes and this one I thought was pinker than the one I had posted before.  The country looks really desolate and I wondered how anything is sustained on this type of land but sheep will apparently eat almost anything but a huge area is needed for just one sheep, not like down in the more fertile areas.

Everything I had read about Mungo suggested you should carry extra fuel.  Once I always had gas to rely on as well as petrol but no more, so for an extra 30 klms, I decided to go into Pooncarrie and fill up.

I then headed out to the Darling River Wharf site.   In years gone by, Pooncarrie  was a natural wharf where local farmers loaded their wool into steamboats and barges to be taken down the river for sale.  Once a prosperous town, now only 60 residents.

The Darling River Basin covers one million square kilometres – 14% of Australia – going south from Culgoa and Barwon River junction.    From its source in Queensland, to its mouth S.E. of Adelaide, it is 3,370 klms long.   It varies from scattered waterholes to 80 klms wide when in flood.   The importance of the Darling declined in the 1920’s as new forms of transport emerged.

I read the above at the site and thought it so interesting, I wrote it down.   At the moment the river is sad, is very low and is not suitable to drink or even swim in.  This is it below at the original Wharf site.

Right beside the wharf site was a cafe, brightly coloured chairs set outside in the sun, plus indoor seating.   I chose to sit outside and the lady owner was a delight.  After my toasted sandwich and coffee she brought me out a glass of cold water saying, “After bread I always find it good to have some water”.   I always like to support a small town when I can and was delighted to have done so here.

Back to  the turn off to Mungo and onto the gravel.   There was one bad stretch but otherwise not too bad at all.

At last I was at Mungo, so I went and registered and paid my entrance and camping site for two nights, then headed out to find a camping spot.  It was very well set out into individual sites and I found one near a spreading tree on one side and bushes on the other, so well hidden.   Some sites had a shelter and water tanks beside them but I couldn’t see any toilets.  The showers and toilets were at the  Visitor centre!   I never did find any at the camping site, so glad I had my own porta-loo.

At sunset I walked to the lookout to take a photo overlooking the dried up Lake Mungo, but it wasn’t all that spectacular.  An early night.

Saturday, 27th May.

Next morning after brekkie, I drove over to the showers and luxuriated in a hot shower – bliss!   My tour to the Walls of China did not begin till 11am, so I wandered around the informative centre which was excellent.  There was a film on how the Mungo man and woman were discovered.  I was fascinated that Mungo woman who was discovered in 1969 was cremated, her bones then broken and reburnt – a quite revolutionary discovery and found by pure chance.  A Scientist of some sort, found these bones which the wind had uncovered, was about to remove some when he found a jaw bone and realised this was of enormous significance.  In 1974, Mungo Mann was discovered close by.  His body had been covered with ochre and his hands were clasped across his chest, so a buriel ritual had been prrformed which went back as far as 40,000 years when this area was in the ice age  – Incredible!

Our Tour Leader took us out to the site.  First though he gave some water to a baby kangaroo who comes each day for some.

 

Lake Mungo is now dry but once it was 8-9 metres in depth.  Over time the lake began to dry up and the westerly winds blew sand over to the other side of the lake and it eventually it made a crescent shaped cliff, called a lunette covering the original landscape.  The pink soil at the base is 120,000 years ago, a dry period.  The brownish cream and white sands are 60,000- 370,000 years ago and the grey clays are 37,000 to 18,000 years ago, a time when the lakes filled and dried out several times.  Within the latter two times, extensive evidence of Aboriginal occupation can be found.  It is amazing and remarkable that these facts can be verified, and behind the main lunette are the white dune crests which formed over the period since the lakes finally dried some 15,000 years ago.

These some bones left exposed and some of the amazing shapes left after the wind has blown away the softer sand.

Back at the Visitor Centre, I visited the Shearing shed which is in amazing condition and of course was a working shed not that many years before sold to the National Parks.

 

By the Visitors Centre is the Meeting Place for the three Aboriginal Tribes who have claim to this land through their ancestors.   It also features a re-creation of part of the human fossil footprints that were discovered in 2003.

 

You can see the footprints and a young man testing the size.  The other two are the two sides of the rock carvings at the entrance to the Meeting Place.

I then did a drive of 70 klms around the Park but being on my own did not get to experience it as well as if someone had read out the descriptions of where I passed. The next photos are of all that is left of the original homestead and the underground room which was built to avoid the heat of the day.

 

Sunday, 27th May.

Up early and over to have a shower,  then headed back to Mildura.  Somehow took the wrong turn and ended up in Wentworth, so went and checked out where the Darling River runs into the Murray River.  It has been very well presented.  You cross onto a small island, first passing by aCanoe tree where an Aboriginal once carved out a whole canoe – how clever were they!   Then there is  a one klm walk  which goes beside the Murray, then curls in between thick bamboo like reeds so you walk along a narrow passage with these reeds high above you – was lovely.

 

Finally there it was, the junction of these two great rivers, the Murray and The Darling rivers.

 

It doesn’t look much but was beautiful to see it all in one if you could.  Back crossing over the little bridge I could see the Darling River between the trees at far end.

I returned and had a late lunch beside the Murray, then headed out towards Red Cliff.  Eventually I turned off down a side road and found my way back to the river.  Here high above the water were what seemed like hundreds of white cockies in a dead gum tree, who all took off screeching as I walked near them.

I drove around and found a way down onto the shoreline and camped there for the night.  Once again so peaceful.

 

 

Wednesday/Thursday 23/24 May 2018

This morning I took my time getting up, no need to hurry as less than 200 klms to Mildura.  Ate my porridge by the river with hopeful pelicans trawling by on the lookout for a scrap – no hope I love porridge.

This free camping area has toilets and a rubbish skip which is great.  Gradually most people moved off and eventually I did too but took a photo of a modern houseboat heading to Renmark and possibly the end of their holiday.Back on the Sturt Highway, I came to this beautiful old bridge at Paranga which is the oldest bridge of its kind.  The tall part is what rises to let the big boats go through.  There was a lovely park from where I took the photo and I was very taken with the number of burls on this river red gum.

Back on track for Mildura, I was amazed at the paddocks.  On my left was The Sunset National Park with scrubby vegetation.  The other side of the road was ploughed paddocks, red in colour but covered in small rocks, some rocks so white it toned the colour of the soil down.  I wondered what could grow there, but obviously something does.      Closer to Mildura and it was grapevines everywhere on both sides of the road and of course these are for the dried grapes – raisens and sultanas.  However the wine industry has made its mark here too now.

Then I was into Mildura city and parts of it I remembered.   The three lane street going one way, lovely plantations in the middle and three lanes going the other way.  Breaks in the plantations allow for three lanes each way to cross over.   One plantation was of beautiful red gums and they looked stunning as you approached, other plantations were of big clumps of grasses with tan bark between the clumps and seems they were planted by the Lions club.   I was very impressed with the layout of the town streets.

The Information Centre was big, open and modern looking, housing a Theatrette, gift shop, information on just about everywhere, cafe and exhibits of places close to Mildura like Mungo National Park and Hattah Lakes.   They were extremely helpful regarding free camps here and I also booked a day trip tomorrow going up the Murray on a Paddle Steamer.   Can’t wait.

I then walked out a side door into the Library, again very spacious and modern.  Here I was able to get on a computer and empty my mail box which has a habit of getting full.

A visit to the supermarket to get food to take to Mung N.Pk, and off I drove following the map I’d been given to find myself a park for the night.   So here I am, once again beside the Murray.   Just beautiful isn’t it?

Thursday 24th May.  Mildura

Sitting in the laundromat waiting for my clothes to wash, thankfully helped by a young man as to how to go about getting soap powder and then get coins from the machine.   I can’t remember when I last did this, but is many years ago.

Woke early and watched the sunrise out of my window.  Had door and side window shut last night it was SO cold, but slept well.   7,30am up and dressed and getting porridge made.  After that I packed the van and was down at the wharf an hour early.   Actually took awhile to find wharf, not helped by being so early the Paddle Steamer hadn’t even arrived.

At this time of the year it only runs one day a week and you have the choice of going on the Melbourne for a morning tea two hour cruise, or the Rothbury for five hrs cruise to Trentham winery, BBQ lunch and return.   I chose the latter, not for the wine but for the length of time we would be away and out on the river.   Good choice, added to which it was a beautiful day, blue skies and sunny.  The prediction had been for cloudy all day – how lucky can you be.

There was a good crowd but nowhere near full.  I spent most of the time with Gail and Wayne.  They were here visiting their son.  Later Gail told me this was their first big venture out.  19 months ago a young man under drugs fell asleep at the wheel of his car and ploughed head on into them.   They spent months in hospital and are lucky to be alive.   Three lives altered because of drugs.  It is so sad.

As we left the Wharf, the Melbourne came in behind us.

We travelled along really slowly but even so the wind was bitter even with the sun shining, so Wayne, Gail and I retreated inside and sat where the sun shone through the windows.  We still had a good view on each side of the bank.  On the right hand side, it was natural bush , the left hand side had caravan parks and dwellings.  At one spot, the land cost $1million dollars and the houses were enormous.

It was hard to get the photos as the sun was reflecting on the camera and I couldn’t be sure what I was taking, so surprised they turned out as well as they did.

Along the way our Captain entertained us with stories of everything along the river which was very interesting.    There were a huge amount of large dead river redgums quite a way into the water.   These died because when the Murray was first dammed at Mildura, the river rose so high these trees virtually drowned and died.  Now they are perching and nesting places and when they do fall down into the river they provide places for fish to hide and other crustaceans to find a home.  He also pointed out “1956” painted on a tree which signified the level the river rose that year.  The same date is on a building on the river in Maryborough Qld – the Bond Store, I think.   Also a large sign near the water’s edge stayed 900, which is telling you that at this point the Murray River is 900 miles from its mouth at Lake Alexandrina in S.A.

At noon we arrived at Trentham Winery which is upstream from Mildura.  First we were taken for a tour of the Winery, then a sample tasting of their wines, followed by a scrumptious BBQ lunch with salad.

The restaurant at the winery was really lovely but my photo was too far away, so I’ll not put it in.  The big gums were on the property and the red grape vine hung over the restaurant verandah.   I noticed that these beautifully coloured vines are in many home gardens and also decorating shop verandas and walls.   They are really bright and cheerful.

On the way back I sat up the front of the boat as the wind had dropped and it was beautiful in the sun.  There were a group of ladies there who wanted to know where I came from and it appears that they thought I was from Qld because I was so brown.  I had no idea I was so brown that it was noticeable.   Then one asked what I was doing as she’d heard me tell someone I was towing a caravan!   Don’t know where she got that from.  From then I became the centre of questions as to why I travelled alone, where had I’d been and I found it all a little embarrassing.  It was done in a nice way, they were just interested and surprised.

Coming back we saw Bruce’s Marina, where a cluster of houseboats were in a piece of back-water.   As I liked the name, I took a photo, but there were many places where lots of houseboats were moored together.  Bruce’s Marina left, rows of moored houseboats right.

All the way along today the Murray seemed so wide and it’s depth was generally 7 to 8 metres, but all this is due to the foresight of two Californian brothers in the 1800’s, who saw what had been done in America and decided the wide barren wastes of this area could be transformed into the amazing fruit producing area it is today.   They used their engineering skills to harness the water, cleared the land, planted vines and so the story of Mildura  began.Now, back at my campsite – a bit further on than last night as someone was in my place.  I’ve had crumpets for tea with a banana and a cuppa.  My dried washing is put away, and it’s getting a little chilly, so time to brush my teeth and head to bed.

Monday/Tuesday, 21st/22nd May, 2018

Realised I forgot to put in two photos taken at Corny Pt. yesterday.   One of the lighthouse and one of a memorial stone where people can put the name of someone whose ashes have been spread here, plus a seat for them to sit on as they look out to sea and contemplate,    I thought that was lovely.

 

This morning, Monday, I had a leisurely shower and breakfast and then packed up to head on my way.

Firstly however I stopped to go to the Post Office to get copied the logbook that Ray wrote in 1960/61 when he and friend David did the Cradle Mountain walk in Tasmania, then on David’s Honda Scooter, they travelled up the East Coast to Launceston.

Two girlfriends and I had done the same trip the year before and when I was visiting Ray recently he got me to read it out to him.   It was like going back in time for both of us and he gave me a copy, so that I, in turn, could copy it for Eileen, Marion and David, but I hadn’t done it.   Now I was determined to do it and send it on.  Got it done, bought suitable envelopes (it was 6 pages long), so back to the van to write a short note to go in each.   That was when I could not find my car keys!   Not at the post office, not in my handbag – could only be in the van.   It took an hour for the RAA to come, then this lovely man had the door unlocked in just over a minute I reckon!  He suggested I get another key cut and that is now in my purse – better not leave my handbag in the car!

I just didn’t feel like rushing today and have no need to, so onto the highway and off. Pulled into a camera spot just out of Waikerie and took these photos looking both up and down stream of the Murray River at Waikerie.

 

Back on the highway, at times followed the Murray River, other times were far away.   Eventually I arrived in Renmark, went to the information Centre to find out where Pulsers Bend was as is free camping beside the river.  The young girl was very helpful and so off I went.   Now set up where I can look out in the morning at the river.   Cooked a beautiful mince steak stew and will make a cuppa and hit the sack.  Looking forward to lying in bed in the perfect quiet, even though there are a number of camps here.

 

Up and down stream again.

Tuesday, 22nd May.

Have decided to spend the day quietly here.

It is 8.05am and the only sound is that of the odd bird.  Not a leaf is moving, the morning air is so still and not a murmur of the campers sharing this spot.    Campers on the whole are a quiet lot.

Lots of messages from my friends regarding Ray.  Consider myself so fortunate particularly because most go way way back in my life but are still there when needed.

I took a walk and discovered a backwater where the Murray has slipped in behind and my van and I are on the point jutting out between the two.   Also found there are two toilets here, a rubbish skip and a building closed in on three sides maybe for if it rains.  Then the best discovery, 3 large red gum logs sticking up out of a BBQ.  Back to my camp and have had a fire burning all day.A pelican swims upstream, then flies back, time and again.  It has been interesting watching him dive down into the water, pull up some weed, then swallow and when it falls into his large “basket under his beak”, he shakes it like mad, then swallows it down.  Repeated and repeated.   There are a number of ducks and water hens too.Just a blissful, do nothing day.  I shall move on to Mildura and Mungo National Park tomorrow.

One thing I did do was remove everything out of the front of the van – as you must do should you want to get to the engine.   Only a man could have designed this!  I grizzle every time I have to do it.   Once again a good litre of oil was needed.  Then I cleaned up before putting everything back neatly – I wonder how long that will last!

Time for yet another cuppa and read the paper I got two days ago.  It’s been a good day.

Saturday/Sunday 17/18th May 2018

I slept really well and woke to find two missed messages on my phone – Ray’s son, my nephew, Jon and my niece Christine, daughter of my eldest brother Jim who died 21 years ago.

I rang Jon, sort of knowing what he had to tell me,  – Ray had died peacefully at 2am that morning.  My initial reaction was pure emotion, but then I realised for Ray, it was a blessing.   When I returned from Tassie, I noticed how frail he had got and once he said to me, “I don’t know how long i’ve got here”.   I knew what he was referring to, but chose instead to say I needed him here for he was my memories of our childhood.  We both grinned, but now I wish I had not been so flippant.

Just the immediate family will be at the cremation tomorrow and a small service will be held at a date to be set.

I decided to go see what I could of Innes N.Pk, so set out driving around the coastline – at that stage I thought the Service for Ray would be in a few days and I would need to return to Sandy.

The coastline is rugged but so beautiful.  These below were near where I was camped overnight.

This coastline has had a number of shipwrecks, some wreckage can still be seen on one of the beaches and five lighthouses are automatically sending out their light now.

The island at the back of the lighthouse was one of the most notorious for shipwrecks, as the map below shows.

I turned off to the Inneston Historic Village.  It was a 2 klm walk around and it was fascinating.  This was an area that was mined for gypsum.   There were buildings dotted everywhere.   Some have been restored and now can be rented out, others are too far gone for this.  If you have the time to read about the town, it gives you a lot of detail.Here are some more of this area.  The cricket pitch is still there right at the back of the sign, made of hard gypsum.

Back driving along the coastline, it was just beautiful though numerous signs indicated the dangers of currents and rips in the water.

I then was at the end of the park but had to drive back to the beginning to leave.  I called into the Ranger station to pay for my site and the lady understood perfectly but it took an age for her to do it manually on her computer.   I have resolved to write to Parks and complain – and not just about that either.   Three young men got in for the price I had to pay, simply because I am a single!  I am over the discrimination because for whatever reason, you are one person!

Once out of the park, I headed for Corny Pt, which Jan and John had told me about.  There was a scenic drive and so I decided to take it and am so glad I did.  More coastline, but this whole area is being cared for by a conservation group.  So, signs ask you to keep to paths, with rocks each side to show you, areas are fenced so the understorey can grow.

Eventually I needed to stop and camp – I had seen no-one as I drove.  A large camping site, I set up my van, cooked a delicious meal of steak and veggies and retired early to bed.  The sun setting was lovely.  These are looking in two directions.

Out my back window, two lights from the lighthouses shone their signals to wayfarers on the high seas, and I fell asleep.

This morning I was up making porridge and a cuppa and enjoying the views out to the sea.   Here is my camp.

Today I decided to do as I had planned and head to Mungo National Park and when I found out what was happening, I could adjust my plans as necessary.   Most of my day was spent driving, then pulling over to take a call – all of whom I appreciated, -and putting petrol in my fuel tank.

As the Service will be on either the 9th or 10th June, I shall stay down and not continue home earlier as was planned, meaning I shall be late returning.

Tonight I am in Waikerie in a caravan park, not my usual style but will enjoy a shower in the morning.   The Murray River is at the back of the park and I shall check it out tomorrow.